If you are ever in the Eastern Sierra, make a point of stopping at Erick Schat’s Bakkery in Bishop, California. It has the largest variety of bread I have ever seen.
The south half of the shop is devoted to rows of bread shelves. Walking between them is like getting lost in a library, only with loafs instead of books. There are common choices like sourdough and raisin bread. There are also less expected treats like churros and bacon chili cheese bread.
The north half of the shop is a confectionery. As with the bread section, this side has a great many choices. The brightly colored cookies and gelato caught my eye, but there were a great many other things, too.
There’s also a sandwich shop at the back of the bread section, plus some shelves for day-old bread.
This loaf of “chili cheeze bread” was a little like a pie, with the cheese and peppers in the center. We had this for dinner while camping beside June Lake. There was plenty left over for the next day.
In Dublin, I walked everywhere I needed to go. I only used busses when I needed to get outside Dublin. These observations are from spring 2018.
Great Walking Town
If you take a look at a map of Dublin, you will see roads more or less radiating from a section of the river Liffey. For me, the place the roads converged was the center of town — the area with Christ Church Cathedral and the Temple Bar district. It felt like everything I wanted to see was within about a half hour walk of that spot.
On occasion, I would take a wrong turn and find unexpected things. That meant it took a lot longer to reach my intended destination, but that was no bad thing.
The Temple Bar district. I saw a lot more bars than temples.
The town is mostly flat, and I found convenient sidewalks wherever I went. Also, different parts of town had a distinctive feel to them, so it was easy to have a sense of where I was relative to the center of things. A wide street with big buildings meant I was north of the Liffey. Twisting streets with no cars meant I was close to the Temple Bar district. Lots of houses meant I had wandered south from the Temple Bar beyond the touristy area.
Christ Church Cathedral is a distinctive landmark.
Temple Bar GPS Trouble
The streets around the Temple Bar district are narrow and winding, so it can be hard to stay oriented. The narrowness of the streets and the height of the buildings gave my phone GPS a lot of trouble. I eventually gave up on GPS and just walked around until I got a feel for that part of town.
The statue of Molly Malone is nice, but I never saw her on purpose. When I took a wrong turn south of the Liffey, I would wind up at Molly Malone somehow. She’s like the patron saint of me getting lost.
Peaceful Parks
Scattered around Dublin are green spaces. They’re all well-groomed and nice for a stroll or a picnic.
I visited the Irish National War Memorial Park one weekday morning, and found it nearly deserted. Meditative monumental areas like this sat on a low rise, with blossoming trees on the surrounding slopes. The placid water features were contained in geometrically precise stonework. Phoenix Park is an expansive park, with plenty of space for a jog. Within lies this massive Wellington Monument. Saint Stephen’s Green is in a busy part of town, and had plenty of people in it every time I passed through. It was a favorite place for me to stop and enjoy a sandwich on my way across town. The river Liffey, running through the middle of town.
This illuminated manuscript, more than a millennium old, is at Trinity College. The admission fee gets you into an area full of educational displays about such manuscripts. I learned a lot from these. At the end, one can view the Book of Kells itself, along with several other manuscripts.
I found it breathtaking to gaze at this, and think about those who worked so hard on this, so long ago.
The Old Library
Within Trinity College is The Old Library. It is the iconic university library. The center aisle has historical artifacts on display. Busts decorate the sides. If you have an affinity for books, this place will feel like a cathedral.
When I first stepped in to this place, I had to stop for a while and take it all in.
Jo’Burger
Jo’Burger was the first burger place to excite me in a long time. In addition to the usual choice of meat and bread, ordering the burger involved picking from a long list of styles. The list had some pretty exotic choices. My favorite was caramelized chili banana, bacon, and goat cheese.
They brought the burgers to the table skewered in a way that let us see all the ingredients, like an exploded diagram of a machine.
I did not know I needed caramelized banana on my burger until I visited Jo’Burger.
Jo’Burger gets bonus points for handing us what appeared to be a beat up hardcover textbook about how to be a good parent. The pages inside had been replaced with the drinks menu.
I enjoyed Jo’Burger when I visited the Temple Bar district in 2017 and 2018. Sadly, their web site now has an announcement that they will be closing.
National Museum of Ireland
This museum is split into two buildings: one for archaeology, and one for natural history.
The natural history side contains displays of preserved animals from around the world. It’s a good place to take kids. I enjoyed looking for examples of birds I had seen in the local parks, so I could learn their names.
The archaeology side was my favorite. From bronze age artifacts on the lower levels, to viking era displays up stairs, there is a wide range of exhibits about local human history. There is an area displaying bodies pulled from bogs.
If one looks for it, one can find a section up stairs with mummies from Egypt.
Guinness Brewery Tour
I was expecting a tour of a brewery. This was more of a self-guided, walking multimedia experience. Rooms that had once been used for brewing work had been refit as artistically arranged educational spaces. I enjoyed them, but then I like learning things. I had fun taking a class on how to pour Guinness correctly. At the end of the tour, I took the elevator to the bar at the top of the brewery. The view was impressive.
Historical Guinness cans.
The Jameson Distillery
There are multiple tours to choose from. The setting is not as grand in scale as the Guinness facility, but I thoroughly enjoyed the wit of the tour guides.
The first tour I tried was the “Bow Street Experience”, which went over the history of the distillery and ends with a tasting that contrasts American, Scottish, and Irish whiskeys.
The second tour I tried was the premium whiskey tasing. I can attest that the whiskeys were indeed premium.
Notice the wings on the wall? They’re made from barrel staves.
Traveling with a phone does not have to involve roaming fees. Here are a few things I learned about saving money while traveling internationally.
What Roaming Fees Are
If you have a United States phone provider, and you take your phone to another country, you may get extra fees on your bill at the end of the month. Those are roaming fees.
If you continue to use your phone outside the United States, those fees can get ugly. The fees can also get ugly if you just have your phone turned on. Your phone may be doing things on its own like checking email and receiving text messages over the cell network.
The surest way to avoid roaming fees is to turn off your phone completely. Putting your phone in airplane mode and leaving it that way also works.
For three ways to use your phone while keeping fees down, read on!
Solution 1: Make A Deal With Your Provider
Your cell provider may make a deal with you, if you contact them ahead of time. Verizon, for example, offers a service called TravelPass. TravelPass is a flat daily fee you pay in order to avoid normal roaming fees. The service costs $5-$10 per day, depending on the country. I’ve had good luck using this service while traveling in Canada.
This is a very simple way to avoid surprises on your bill.
Solution 2: Using Wi-Fi, Not Cell
If you want to disconnect from the cell network, yet still get internet from Wi-Fi, your phone may allow it. The first time you do this, I recommend checking with your cell provider soon after to see if you’ve triggered any roaming fees.
On my phone, I enable airplane mode to disconnect from the cell network, then tap the Wi-Fi icon to enable Wi-Fi. I don’t know if it works the same way with all phones.
On my phone, the airplane icon lights up when I’m in airplane mode. If I tap the Wi-Fi icon, Wi-Fi gets enabled but leaves airplane mode on.
This works well for checking email during layovers. It also works well in cities with a lot of Wi-Fi. This worked for me while traveling in Spain. When I needed internet, I stopped by coffee shops and other places with free Wi-Fi.
What Wi-Fi Can’t Do
In most cases, you won’t be able to make phone calls or use text messages once you’re disconnected from the cell network.
I say, “in most cases,” because there are internet-based services that provide voice and / or text without using the cell network. For example, Skype is a way to do both using the internet. Facebook Messenger works for written messages. This approach will keep your costs down as long as they are accessing the internet through Wi-Fi, not the cell phone network.
If you plan to do the Wi-Fi only thing, it’s best to do a bit of pre-travel preparation. Figure out what apps you want to use, and try them out with people you may want to contact.
Solution 3: Using a Local Provider
If you really need cell phone service in another country, and you will be there for more than a few days, you can temporarily hook your phone up to a local phone provider.
To do this, buy a local sim card. A sim card is a little piece of electronics that fits inside your phone.
Four sim cards. The other sides are just cardboard with logos and printed ID numbers.
Any phone I have used has a way to replace the sim card. It might involve a little drawer in the side of the phone, or popping the phone case open. If you Google “replace sim card” and your phone model, you will probably find instructions.
The sim card controls the identity of the phone. So once you replace your USA Verizon sim card with an Irish Vodaphone sim card, your phone will connect to the Vodaphone network, and you won’t be using your Verizon plan any more. Verizon won’t recognize your phone until you put the Verizon sim back in there. Your smart phone will still have all its apps.
Airport shops often sell sim cards for around $25. Some countries require identity verification before buying a sim (showing your passport may be enough.) In my experience, these cards are prepaid. Prepaid cards come with a certain amount of local voice and data. This has been enough to get me through a week, as long as I connected to Wi-Fi for any heavy internet use.
Local Provider Gotchas
I have had good experiences with local sim cards, but there are some things to watch out for:
Do not lose your original sim card! You’ll need to swap it back in when you get back home.
Read the small print on the local sim card. The service may only be good for a small area; it may not allow you to phone or text home without extra fees.
Your phone number will change! Your original phone number is attached to your original sim card.
Applications on your phone may notice that the sim changed, and ask you to log in again (Gmail, for example.)
If there is anything that needs to reach you at your old phone number, changing your number may be a problem. For example, if there is a web site you log into that needs to send you a text message when you log in, that text message will go to your old phone number, and you won’t get it.
Your phone must be unlocked to take advantage of a local sim. If you don’t know whether your phone is unlocked, your phone provider should be able to tell you.
Notebooks are a treasure for creative people. They invite the owner to write, draw, and plan. Just having one nearby is like hearing a muse whisper, “let’s create.”
I purchased four handmade notebooks from Fajr Beirut. This is a business that employs Syrian refugee women, so that they can support their families by producing these colorful notebooks.
There are plenty of designs to choose from. I got the Lucky Packet, so Fajr Beirut picked four random designs at various sizes. Here is the set that arrived at my home:
Fajr Beirut Lucky Packet
It’s neat to see a business like this pop up. These are people who have survived a very ugly situation. Despite that, they found a way to improve their lives, while also distributing beautiful things around the world.
About half a year ago, I started smoking meat using a Pit Barrel Cooker. It has been a great thing.
There are a lot of smokers out there. Cabinet, offset, electric, charcoal…my wife put a lot of research into picking a smoker. Ultimately, she went with one that would be easy to use. That it was manufactured by a nearby, likable company was also a plus.
Simple Design
The Pit Barrel Cooker is a modified 30 gallon metal drum. It has two horse shoes welded to the sides for handles, and one on the top as a lid handle. There is a vent low on the side, with a pivoting metal flap so that you can control the air intake. There is also a metal stand for the barrel to sit on so that you don’t have your hot metal drum sitting directly on the mud / your nice wooden deck.
Inside, at the bottom, there’s a removable metal basket for the coals. At the top, you can put in a grill, or a couple pieces of rebar for meat hooks.
Despite the design’s simplicity, I understand the convection physics in these things are pretty sophisticated. So if you run out and throw some charcoal in the nearest oil drum, your results won’t be quite like this thing’s.
Easy To Use
I am an enthusiastic outdoor cook. Not talented or expert. Just enthusiastic. I can grill some decent food. Most of my experience involves camp fires and grills (either charcoal or propane.)
We use a “chimney” to get the charcoal started.
Here’s the routine we follow with the Pit Barrel Cooker:
First step is to prepare the meat. With chicken, we cut each chicken in half and hang it on hooks (hooks are provided with the Pit Barrel Cooker.) With tri-tip and pork, we just hook it without cutting. Get the rub or marinade on.
Second step (or at the same time as step one if you have a helper) is to get the charcoal started. We use a “chimney” to get the starter coals going, then dump those coals into the basket with the rest of the fuel.
Then you wait. That’s pretty much it. There are tricks you can use to adjust heat and cooking rate, like adjusting the air intake valve, or setting the lid askew. We often increase air flow toward the end with chicken to get the skin crispy, but none of that is required. You wait 45 minutes to some hours depending on what you’re cooking, and voila! Yummy meat.
A load of charcoal will keep this going for at least four hours, so there’s enough time to cook a bunch of chickens, and then some tri-tips, and then some pork. Or if you’re not trying for huge volumes, you can throw everything in at once. If you put in everything at once, taking the lid to check fast-cooking things (tri-tip) will make it harder to predict how long it will take to cook the slow-cooking things (pork.) But if you have a meat thermometer, that’s not really a problem.
Eight half chickens fit easily into the drum.
Nice To Have
I still use my old grill when I’m just whipping up dinner. But when there’s a big family event, or when meat happens to be on sale cheap, using the smoker can be a fun event. The relatives look forward to it. Sharing the bounty is a nice way to meet neighbors. It does produce a lot of yummy-smelling smoke, though, so be mindful of wind direction and your neighbors sensitivities.
Some times we cook a bunch for ourselves, freeze what we won’t eat soon, and have easy access to slow-cooked tri-tip and whatnot for a month or two.
These artisan griller it gloves are thick, very heat resistant, and tough. They have made it through a lot of grilling without showing much wear.
I am happy to have a Pit Barrel Cooker, and my extended family and neighbors are happy I have it, too. For more details on this device, and pictures of some that aren’t coated in desert dust, check out the Pit Barrel Cooker Company web site.
I recently had the great fortune to find myself in Spain with a week of time to myself. Being a history fan, I took the opportunity to visit some historical sites, and see buildings that are ten times older than any buildings near my home in the USA.
The Iberian peninsula — the area now dominated by Spain — has a rich history, and so many historical sites that it would take a lot longer than a week to see them all, and a lot longer still to truly comprehend their stories. I wanted to absorb all of it, but history is big like an ocean; you can swim in its waters, but you can never drink it all.
I’ve written about my visits to Toledo and Mérida. In this blog entry, I am leaving some general travelling notes in the hope they are useful to other visitors to Spain.
Tourist map of Mérida
Planning The Route
Once I knew I was going to Spain, I started to look into what I would most like to see. That was a hard decision. I quickly learned that Spain is a big square (more or less) and most points of interest are along the edges (plus some right in the middle around Madrid.) So unless I had the time to do a lap of the entire country (I did not) I needed to compromise.
If you are using public transit, you’ll be taking either trains or planes to get around Spain. I went with trains, to see the countryside. Later I learned that planes may have cost less as well as been faster. But I did enjoy the trains.
Spain has nice high-speed trains, so going across Spain takes less than a day (if you start early.) Train tickets can be purchased ahead of time online, but I walked into the train station and got my tickets same day. That meant walking up to the ticket counter in most towns. Madrid had ticket machines (which conveniently had English as a language option.)
In the 3 train journeys I made (on a total of 6 trains) I was able to get a ticket on my desired train same-day. But on the journey from Mérida to Barcelona, I’m lucky I bought the ticket for both legs of the trip in Mérida. If I had waited till Madrid, I would have had to pay double (all the cheap seats were taken by the time I got to Madrid.) Plus it’s cheaper to buy both legs of the trip at once.
View from the train in Mérida. I don’t have any pictures of the Madrid station; I was too busy looking for my train.
Madrid Train Station
Madrid — the capital of Spain — is right in the center of the country. The train tracks converge there. So there’s a good chance that traveling between any two cities will involve a train to Madrid, and another train from Madrid to your final destination.
The Madrid train station is big. There are three different areas that long distance trains might leave from: lower, middle, and upper. The middle and upper areas are easy; they have a security checkpoint (metal detector and baggage scanner) and feel like airline terminals. They have nice clear signs with train numbers and expected departure times hours in advance. The platform number for each train shows up as departure time draws near.
The lower terminal is different. It’s mostly used for commuter trains. My train to Mérida left from that area, even though it was a 5-hour trip into the countryside. The only sign I found indicating which train went to which platform only showed that info a few minutes in advance (barely long enough to run to a platform.) I was very lucky to find some helpful bystanders (“Look for the train labelled ‘Badajoz’, because it won’t say ‘Mérida‘”) and an angelic station employee who pointed me to the right platform once the train showed up.
If you’re going through Madrid, leave an hour to get your tickets, find your platform, and go through security. It’s hard to find English-speakers there, so if your Spanish skills are limited, allow a couple hours.
Door to the Sagrada Familia Cathedral in Barcelona.
Lodging
This trip was my first experiment with Air BnB. It was a good experience. I was able to get private apartments or rooms with just 2-3 days notice. It only cost me $30 – $50 per night. The lodgings were pleasant, and the hosts quite helpful. Two of the three hosts I worked with communicated well in written English via email and SMS. One host used the opportunity to practice his spoken English with me, and the other two preferred to speak Spanish. I would absolutely work with this service (and these hosts!) again.
View from the top of the Sagrada Familia.
Getting Around Barcelona
Barcelona is a pleasant city to walk in. It is a big city, though, so if you use some public transit, you will have more time for destinations. It has busses (slow way to get around) and subways (fast!) Tickets for both are available from machines (with English!) in the subway stations. Both the subway and train tickets are available in 10-ticket books. There’s a significant per-ride discount on those books, and the books aren’t specific to a person; you can take a 5-person group on two trips with one of those books.
Getting to and from the airport is easy with Aerobus. Multiple Aerobus busses per hour run between the airport and Plaça de Catalunya (a big plaza downtown.) The trip takes around half an hour. You can get tickets from machines at the airport or in the Plaça de Catalunya. There are stops in between, but I did not see tickets available there.
Crazy breakfast cereals.
Language
My Spanish is poor. I learned some when I was a kid, but have not used it regularly since then. That would have kept me from picking Spain as a tourism destination, but my company was flying me to Spain, and I decided to take advantage of that paid plane ticket, language barrier be darned.
In the touristy areas of Barcelona, language wasn’t much of a problem. Folks who make a living off tourism in that city often had some English.
However, my weak Spanish became a problem as soon as I tried to leave Barcelona, at the train station. From that point on, I bought all my train tickets using Spanish, and once I was out of Barcelona, 90% of my conversations were in Spanish (the rest of my conversations were evenly divided between pantomime and English.) Though I was often dealing with people in the tourist industry, most of their customers were from other parts of Spain.
I learned there are two common reactions when I ask a Spaniard if they speak English (in Spanish, of course.) Some people give a blank stare or shake their heads decisively. That means “no”. Other people look uncomfortable. That means “yes, but I haven’t used it regularly since I was a kid.” In that case, it’s best to proceed in Spanish, and fall back on English only if absolutely necessary.
Funny story: during one of my three passes through Madrid, I asked an innocent bystander if he spoke English. He gave me the uncomfortable look, so I asked in Spanish if he knew which platform the train to Badajoz uses. In perfect Brooklyn-accented English, he responded, “I have no fucking idea.” After that, he spoke in Spanish and Spanish-accented English. I will never forget my shock / amusement at hearing that perfect Brooklyn accent in the middle of Spain. I wonder where he picked up that particular accent, and why for just that phrase.
Roman ruins, excavated in the courtyard of the Alcazar in Mérida.
In Retrospect
A lot of this post has focused on the challenges of traveling in Spain. That’s just because I figure that is the kind of information that will be most helpful to readers. The overall experience of going to Spain was great. I saw some wonderful things and had experiences that will stick with me forever (for more details on some of the highlights, see my posts about Toledo and Mérida.)
The people of Spain were good to me. In general, there was a laid-back quality to them. There were cultural differences depending on what town I was in. I regretted inflicting my poor Spanish on these good people. But that experience gave me a more personal understanding of the challenges facing those who have trouble communicating, be it because of language or disability.
One of the things I wanted to see in Spain was Roman ruins. Mérida has more preserved Roman monuments than any other city in Spain. Perfect!
This post shares my general impressions of Mérida.
Getting To Mérida
I got to Mérida by train. The train from Madrid to Badajoz has a stop in Mérida. It’s about a 5 hour train trip from Madrid to Mérida. Rolling into the Mérida train station is a real treat — the train goes right between sections of an aqueduct as it slows down for the station.
Aqueduct near the Mérida train station.
Veterans of Augustus
The Roman empire was known to pay its soldiers by granting them some of the land they helped conquer. In this case, a town named Emerita Augusta was founded (how’s that for a literal-minded naming process?) The modern name, “Mérida” is the linguistic descendent of “Emerita Augustus”.
Granting the veterans this land wasn’t just good for the vets; it helped Rome by putting a bunch of experienced soldiers right at an important river crossing, and giving them a personal stake in making sure the place remained under Roman control.
This place is called the Temple of Diana. Actually it was a temple to the emperor.
Romans Doing Roman Stuff
As Romans tend to do, they built stuff here. Lots of stuff. They built a bridge that was most of a kilometer long (currently the longest existing Roman bridge), set up a theater / coliseum / palace complex that is an archaeologist’s dream (people are still putting on plays at the theater, and it has been fixed up to give an idea of what it once looked like.) There is a circus (race track) outside town, with ruins of the stable / chariot storage nearby. All around this town there are little treats to see, like the foundations of housing, or a collection of Roman grave markers.
All this is very walkable. Many sites have no admission, as they are part of the city now (like the Roman bridge, which the locals use to walk across the river.) You can get a “complete circuit” ticket to see the paid attractions. I think it was about 10 euros. They hand you a map and let you take as many days as you like to see the sights.
I was very enthusiastic, so I saw all the attractions on the ticket in one day. After that, there was another full day of historical sites spread around town to see.
This ticket was my companion for a very memorable day.
Romans are Only Part of the Story
Emerita Augusta was established in 25 BC. As the Roman Empire collapsed, the Visigoths came along. They built a hospital, where monks would care for any ailing travelers. Later the Umayyads took the area, and added their own layer of defensive works to Mérida.
I had many striking experiences in Mérida, but one that really stuck with me was a particular tower. There is a fortress at one end of the Roman bridge known as “the Alcazar.” That is just the Arabic word for palace / castle filtered through a couple other languages, so there are a number of buildings in Spain called “the Alcazar”. There is one in Toledo, for example.
Inside the Alcazar at Mérida, there is a tower. The entrance looks like this:
The carved pillars framing the entry were looted from the Visigoth hospital at the edge of town, and dragged over here to build the tower. Similar pillars can be seen inside the tower, used as supports around and over doors.
Inside the tower, a stair descends into a subterranean room with cool air and an enigmatic cistern.
Water collects here, seeping in from the river. This is right at the foot of a Roman dike, atop which later rulers built up high walls.
What strikes me about this tower is, though it was built by one culture, the parts of the tower are the legacy of the cultures that came before. Roman stones used to build the walls, Visigothic pillars used for decoration and structure, and overhead a mosque for the Umayyad soldiers. The Roman masons who carved the stones had no idea the stones would be used like this. The Visigothic artisans probably thought those pillars would remain in the hospital forever. But here they are. Being admired by a man who flew through the sky to visit the place.
Merida has the most patient drivers anywhere I’ve been. They will stop and wait for anyone who looks like they might be thinking of crossing the street. I caused problems there by stopping at crosswalks and waiting for a break in traffic. Every time, the drivers all stopped and waited for me to cross. I eventually learned to cross without hesitation as long as I was reasonably sure the driver saw me. They always stopped.
The driving culture was different in Barcelona. In Barcelona, the horn is probably the first part of the car to wear out. I wonder if Barcelonans know how to get around without a horn. Maybe they call a tow truck if the horn stops working.
Facial expression and eye contact are a little different in Merida than back home in southern California. In California, a nod or a smile is customary when two people cross paths. The only exception is busy areas, where the nodding and smiling would be constant. In Merida, I noticed no one was returning the gesture. And a lot of people seemed to be staring at me.
Eventually I figured out the staring was because I was being weird (with all the nodding and smiling.) So I learned that in Merida, one A) does not smile and B) random eye contact is okay. Folks staring at you doesn’t mean anything; it’s not aggression or an attempt to communicate. It’s just looking at you.
I felt very comfortable with the folks in Merida. There was a relaxed quality to them. I just needed to stop all my nodding, grinning, and traffic-stopping to realize it.
Further Reading
Plenty of people have written lists of things to do in Mérida. Google will reveal those to you. For a more general writeup, Wikipedia’s article is a good starting point.
The Tajo is a thousand-kilometer river that flows through Spain and Portugal. Near the center of Spain, it makes a horse shoe shaped detour around a hill. For thousands of years, nations have recognized that as a fine place to make a stand against those who threaten them. The Carpetani, Roman Empire, Visigoths, Umayyad Caliphate, and the Christian kingdoms that would eventually become Spain all used this place. In modern times, it was used as a fortress again when the Nationalists held it against the Republicans in the Spanish civil war.
Do You Like Castles?
The whole city looks like a castle. Let me qualify that; I was raised in California. There are a few Spanish missions left over from a couple hundred years ago, but mostly cities in California were built so that it is easy to move goods around on trucks. Toledo was built with something else in mind; it was built to keep jerks with spears and arrows away. So there are battlements, towers, bridges, moats — all the things that symbolize castles to a guy whose childhood exposure to castles was fiction books and movies.
So for me, walking down a street barely wide enough for a single car, looking up at stonework shaped by the needs of a bygone era, this place is magical.
Strata of Human Conviction
The altar in the Cathedral of Toledo. Yes, that is gold.
This overwhelmingly amazing stonework is on the back of the altar. If you are attending a service here, you’ll only see it if you take a walk to go find it.
Amongst the defensive works, there are numerous holy places. The largest is the Cathedral of Toledo. The surfaces inside are marked floor to ceiling with centuries of craftsmanship. The amount of artistic effort that has been poured into these stones is breathtaking.
Inside the chambers around the nave are objects that each have their own histories and significance. The one that struck me most was the monstrance. It is an enormous complexity of gold with gems. It is said that it contains the first gold brought to Europe from the New World. I have mixed feelings about that; the monstrance is a beautiful and great thing, but built on conquest. That makes it symbolic of Toledo in general; the place is great, and its history is that of the strong taking what they can.
For scale, note the fellow standing in the background.
The cathedral was built on the same spot as the mosque used by the Umayyads. There are interior walls in this cathedral that are believed to be left over from that mosque. They carry the abstract designs you’d expect from a mosque, instead of the human figures represented in the later Christian carvings.
Also in the cathedral is marked the spot where the Visigoth church was, before it was knocked down to make room for the mosque.
I wonder what was knocked down by the Visigoths to make room for their church.
There was a sizeable Jewish population here, once. I stayed in the Jewish Quarter, and saw small blue tiles with Jewish symbols hidden amongst the cobbles outside many buildings.
Built To Last
A Roman-built bridge spans the Tajo river. The Alcazar can be seen in the background.
When I first walked into Toledo, I made a point of going by the Roman bridge over the Tajo. It was enhanced by later kings who added towers at either end of the bridge. I don’t know what maintenance the past 2,000 years have required, but it is a special thing to walk across a man-made thing that is so old. They did it without gas engines to bring the stone and lift the cranes. I don’t envy them the effort it took, but I’m impressed by what they did.
The Alcazar is the square fort built atop the hill by the Umayyads. Alcazar is the Arabic word for palace / castle, after it’s translated through a couple different languages. Now it’s a military museum, packed with swords, and rifles, and cannons, and plenty of reading material in multiple languages. There’s an American military uniform on display from the time when America and Spain were at war.
There’s an officer’s room that has been kept as-is after it was riddled with bullets in the Spanish civil war. It was a peculiar experience to stand by the holes, and sight out the window, and see the street corner where the Republican besiegers set up their gun.
I spent many hours in that museum, and I felt like I was only skimming the information available.
A Pleasant Place To Be
You don’t have to be a history nut to enjoy Toledo. It is a novel place for a walk, if you don’t mind lots of hills. There are plenty of gift shops with swords and damascene crafts. Plus, there are churros with chocolate for breakfast!
There were a lot of Spanish tourists there — it is conveniently located half an hour train ride from Madrid. There were plenty of foreigners other than me there, but things will be a lot easier if at least one of your party members speaks some Spanish.
The “main” (but still very narrow!) streets tend to get very crowded, but if you step into one of the many side alleys, you can walk for blocks without seeing anyone. “Blocks” may be the wrong word there. The town is like a maze with no 90 degree corners. The street map looks like something M. C. Escher would come up with.
If you get tired of the narrow streets, take a walk down the hill to the river’s edge. There is a well-maintained but quiet trail there. It’s a peaceful place, with birds going about their business the same way they did before humans got fancy ideas about this hill.
